Just one of the eight or so books of new swatches that just arrived.

This is the sweet spot, the new fabrics are in, last season’s fabrics that you’ve been eyeing are still available, the pricing hasn’t budged. It’s win-win.

“What?” You say. “That’s because it still is last season… .”

Yes and no. Remember, this isn’t an off-the-rack piece of …. clothing… this is your Leviner Wood custom-tailored garment waiting to be commissioned and made up. And that, my friend, takes about five weeks to make happen. Which puts us smack at Spring’s door.

I’d put up more photos, but they don’t do the fabrics justice. There is some beautiful stuff here, come take a look. Call Larry to schedule an appointment today. 804.928.7946.

We get a lot of this question from our clients: How do I prevent yellow armpit stains on my shirts?

Begin by wearing an undershirt. That didn’t help the Wood-man up there though.

The staining is caused by an interaction between your sweat (and pH balance) and the chemicals in the antiperspirant. A roll-on or gel will exacerbate the problem. Make sure it is completely dry before you get dressed.

I’ve had a lot of success from switching from an antiperspirant to a combination of deodorant and talcum powder (Shower-to-Shower, for example.) That hasn’t worked for Larry as well.

Another solution is to use less product (that comes right from Gillette Co., by the way). Most men assume that more works better — that’s not the case. A thin layer of protection is all you need.

If you launder your own shirts, pretreat the armpit with Oxyclean and then wash. You might also have your shirts laundered and ironed instead of dry-cleaned.

Any other solutions are more than welcome. What works for you?

This year make a resolution to look good even on your days off. Tweed trousers are a good start as this still from the new movie “The Artist” proves.

A suit is more than the design, it begins with the fabric. And when it begins with Loro Piana fabric, you’ve begun with one of the finest in the world, some might call it uncompromised luxury, and beginning today, Cyber Monday, we’re offering a thank you for being our customer special price on a suit made from Super 120′s Loro Piana fabric, woven in their factory in Quorna.

Call to set an appointment for this week — November 28 – December 2, 2011 — and Leviner Wood will custom tailor a suit of the gray color stripe Loro Piana fabric for an unbelievable $795 (regularly $1095). After Friday, the fabric reverts to its regular price, so call now to reserve your cloth!

Come into Leviner Wood Custom Clothiers and Shirtmakers and check out the selection. They’re really good this year, subtle, classic, timeless, but not expected.

1) Each piece can be worn separate from the others, giving you a vest with a blue blazer or under a leather jacket, trousers with a sweater, and the jacket with jeans. Especially in the more modern trim cut models.

2) The newest tweeds aren’t the bullet-proof stuff that used to stand up on its own. they are lighter, more wearable and less constructed — making a full tweed suit more comfortable — while still standing up to the many winters to come.

3) Tweed was developed to help hunters blend into the local hillsides. You’re essentially wearing a stealth suit of camouflage.

This is what breaking up The Beatles can do to you.

But we all know why we rocked the hairstyle of the 80′s. .. We had something to prove. Yup, we held down real jobs, but we had wild sides too. All business up front. All party in the back.

We at Leviner Wood suggest a more subtle way of showing your weekend personality. Perfect with a coat and tie, just as suitable with jeans. Our classic collar and cuff custom linings.

]]> http://levinerwood.com/2011/10/03/business-up-front/feed/ 0 http://levinerwood.com/2011/09/27/dub-ya/ http://levinerwood.com/2011/09/27/dub-ya/#comments Tue, 27 Sep 2011 14:27:09 +0000 LW http://levinerwood.com/?p=1409 Continue reading →]]> Ok, that may be misleading, especially when I’m writing of the return of the DB — the double-breasted coat that may have gone missing from men’s wardrobes about the same time that D.B. Cooper leapt from the plane into legend.

“Times have changed,” wrote Mr. Cole Porter, “but we’ve often rewound the clock…”

Yes, the double-breasted sport coat, blazer and suit are back in fashion. But if your idea of the classic DB is … classic

Classic, in this case being defined by the longer, slightly boxy coat with a  deep overlap, and a very drapey chest featuring landing-deck wide lapels…

Well, that’s not where the current crop take their inspiration from. Instead, take a bit of the late 70′s…

Combine it with a big dose of turn of the last century attitude… (read: sex it up)

And you get a slimmed down, very wearable, flattering cut that can be used as a casual jacket, a formal suit, or something in-between.

Just right with slim cut khakis, grey flannels and jeans when worn with an open collar, or no collar at all. Especially when dealing with the Law.

Or pair it with the classic spread collar, tie and your medals for appearances at Court.

Anyway you choose to wear it is OK (click the link to see what GQ says), just ask for the “6, buttons 2, peak lapel” configuration, button it at the middle (and yes, you can wear the DB if you’re just a bit … errr…. prosperous  around the middle, the buttons create a lengthening line) and step out in style this year.

Leviner Wood’s custom double-breasted suit, blazer or sportcoat, available in tweed, flannel, year-round worsted and cashmere for fall.

Regardless, wearing this near mythic fabrication is as close as any us will get to being Cary Grant without donning a tuxedo.

It is a riff on the No.1 Sack Suit, made by Brooks Brothers and so very popular at the time. Cary Grant wouldn’t wear a sack.

No darts, that stayed the same, but the shoulder is anything but natural. Slightly roped and padded, built out to compliment his huge head and neck with a high but wide armhole, the suit hugs his neck in every action scene. The lapel must be 3 1/4″ to 3 1/2″ wide.

The trousers are double forward pleat, cut high and side strapped with one back right pocket and deep cuffs.

The coat is ventless, with besom pockets (no flaps) and a 3/2 roll (three buttons, rolled to the second).This suit is all business. Which is why I chose to commission it for The Icon Collection through my tailor, Leviner Wood. It took us six months just to find the perfect shade of cloth.

Interested? Give Larry a call.

Could it be the end of May already? With Memorial Day just around the corner, it’s time to put away the winter wardrobe and break out the lighter, cooler and more colorful summer clothing.

We at Leviner Wood Custom Tailors and Shirtmakers recommend switching out of your midnight blue or black dinner jackets for the traditional white DJ, which isn’t really white, but more of a cream. At one time, in the South and at warm weather resorts worldwide, the white dinner jacket could be seen alongside of tan, plaid, red and light blue coats, too. They are only appropriate in the Caribbean, onboard cruises to hot weather destinations, at Rick’s Café in Casablanca and outside here in the South, in season. “Outside” meaning that there may be a chance that you will step outside sometime during the evening. When it’s hot, it’s hot. “In season” ends on Labor Day.

When choosing a style, there are all the standard options for collar and buttoning. The best seller is the shawl collar, one button, single-breasted, although we think that Bogie’s double-breasted shawl collar is by far the coolest look and doesn’t require a cummerbund or vest. The collars will be “self-faced”, that is made in the same fabric as the body of the coat, although a notch lapel could take a satin facing to make sure that it isn’t mistaken for a sportcoat. Pockets are besom, with or without flaps as you like and an unvented back looks more streamlined and elegant than the single or side vents. But that’s your call, too. Put one to two buttons on the sleeves.

Your options for fabric are the traditional linen, silk and linen, gabardine or lightweight wool. A minimum of lining is preferred to keep things light and airy. Quarter lining the coat will make it easier to slip over your shirt.

Wearing a single-breasted white dinner jacket calls for a cummerbund, which is far cooler to wear than a vest. The cummerbund comes from India, another place that knows hot weather very well. Choose one in dark blue, black, dark green, summery madras or the traditional maroon. You can match the color of your socks to it, too. We generally stick to a bit of color in the pocketsquare and always wear the black bow tie.

Finish things off by wearing your tuxedo trousers and slip on patent leathers.